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At a glance:

• 01//25 Roasters: kiss the hippo, Round Hill Roastery

• 12//24 Roasters: SlowMov, Bell Lane Coffee

• 11//24 Roasters: Kawa, Nano Kaffee, MOK Coffee

GUSTATORY is a UK-based speciality coffee subscription service that features all the most exciting of UK, USA and European speciality coffee roasters. Being Europe's only multi-roaster coffee subscription, GUSTATORY's ever-rotating roaster discoveries serve the very best independent coffee roasters from around the world in terms of quality, ethics and sustainability, with up to 43% savings (The truth is, the British are really good at marketing).

Provided with a variety of subscription choices, I opt for "Plus 87 Coffees", serving best-in-class speciality coffees with a minimum 87+/100 (SCA) score. Meanwhile, I am trying to give my own notes on each pod, though I just drink, never taste or judge one. My uses a 50 point scale to reflect my own impression on coffee bean itself, consisting of nose (10), flavour (15), body (15) and utility (10), in a nutshell.

January 2025

kiss the hippo, Peru, Los Manantiales

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Roaster: kiss the hippo, London, UK

Region: Cajamarca, Peru

Producer: Anderson Enmanuel Guerrero

Variety: Red Bourbon

Process: Anaerobic Honey

Kiss the hippo is one of my favourite speciality coffee companies in London, and perhaps one of the best in the UK. They are a genuine winner in the scene with a state-of-the-art roastery and impressive coffee shops in Fitzrovia and other key locations across London.

Farm "Los Manantiales" was named after the abundant natural springs found in the area, on the mountains of Jaen, northern Peru. Jaen stands as a beacon in Peruvian coffee, where altitude, climate, and expertise converge to nurture exceptional Arabica varietals. Thriving in the high-altitude fields of the Andes, offers a cup that celebrates Peruvian coffee craftsmanship.

This hand-brewed coffee is bright, with sweetness being the most significant feature. With a sip, expect flavours of black tea, berries, and a hit of chocolate. In short, it is not overly impressive, but a good one that you can't go wrong with. (My 42/50)

Round Hill Roastery, Ethiopia, Diima Danche #10

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Roaster: Round Hill Roastery, Bath, UK.

Region: Gedeb, Ethiopia

Producer: Danche Washing Station, SNAP

Variety: Welisho & Kurume

Process: Natural

Round Hill Roastery began in 2012 in the early days of speciality coffee. Since the beginning we have strived to deliver seasonal, traceable coffees. Through excellent coffee they connect the "origin" Kelston Round Hill to world class farms around the world.

Diima means red in the Oromiffa language, and is an Ethiopian categorization of flavour that is used to indicate coffees that are intense, fruity and tropical. Danche, owned by SNAP, is a washing station in Chelbesa, in the Gedeo zone, processing coffee from around 400 smallholder farmers.

It is light-to-medium roasted bean, but works great as a filter coffee. This typical Ethiopian coffee brings juicy and vibrant notes with florals of raspberry, peach and jam. You can also expect tastes of yoghurt, vanilla, and ice cream - not that complicated, I'm just not very good at describing them. （My 42/50)

December 2024

SlowMov, Ethiopia, Laayyoo Natural

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Roaster: SlowMov, Barcelona, Spain

Region: Guji

Producer: Raro Nensebo Drying Station

Variety: 74110 & 74112 Heirloom

Process: Natural

SlowMov is a speciality coffee shop and roastery located in Barcelona’s charming Gracia neighbourhood. SlowMov is a portmanteau of the words Slow and Movement because they wanted to give people the time and space to discover and enjoy fine specialty coffees. I like the word movement because it is something that moves forward and changes but with cadence and respect for the time needed for each process.

The word Laayyoo refers to an indigenous tree growing in Guji area, used for shade on coffee plantations. This natural coffee is produced through a stringent selection process that eliminates all overripe and underripe cherries, resulting in a clean cup free of excessive fermentation flavours.

With typical light roasted, this lot has a rather subtle flavour profile, remaining somewhat mild even at high extraction levels. The acidity is quite nuanced, with a faint hint of citrus. Finer grind settings and higher brewing temperatures may reveal some berry-like notes. (My 41/50)

Bell Lane Coffee, Heiner Lazo, Colombia, Washed

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• Roaster: Bell Lane Coffee, Mullingar, Ireland
  
• Region: Finca el Rubi, Huila
  
• Producer: Heiner Lazo
  
• Variety: Pink Bourbon
  
• Process: Washed

Bell Lane Coffee was founded in 2012 in Mullingar, eastern Ireland. Their mission is simple: to bring the delight of freshly roasted, seasonal coffee straight to your mug. Since 2012, they've embarked on an incredible journey, exploring the world in search of the finest beans and forging meaningful connections with exceptional coffee producers.

The story of Finca el Rubi starts 25 years ago when it was sold to the current owner Heiner Lazo and his wife Johanna. Heiner has never stopped innovating, adapting, and changing the farm's processing methods to improve results and quality. They plant Papayo, Pink Bourbon and SL 28 in 6-hectare farm. Specifically, the coffee in my hand, cultivated from hybrid of Red and Yellow Bourbon, Pink Bourbon is said to have been first found in Huila, and is gaining increasing attention nowadays.

This Pink Bourbon offers a complex aroma profile, starting with subtle woody notes followed by the sweetness of fruits, primarily orange and citrus. On the palate, it delivers the sweetness dominated by crushed cocoa and raspberry, complemented by hints of caramel in the finish. Beyond expectation. (My 42/50)

November 2024

Kawa, Ethiopia, Duwancho, Natural

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• Roaster: Kawa Coffee, Paris, France
  
• Region: Sidamo
  
• Producer: Famille Dukamo
• Variety: 71458 Heirloom
  
• Process: Natural

Kawa coffee is one of exceptional roasters in Paris, and focus entirely on roasting, with ever owning their own cafes subsidiary to this. Providing an extensive range of coffee selection and brewing gear, Kawa is devoting towards a genuine coffee community and valuing the emerging market like China. Despite a bit heavy commercial marketing, roasting quality has earned them a place in the highly competitive specialty coffee scene.

This elegant Ethiopian highland Arabica grows in the Sidamo region, one of the most popular coffee-producing regions. It is a garden coffee from many small family farms at an altitude of 1,750 to 2,200 metres. Meanwhile, Duwancho, a native fruit of keramo of Sidamo, inspires the coffee named after it, celebrated for its fruity notes.

Honestly, this lot doesn't fully live up to my expectations, despite the captivating aroma when I first opened the bag. After brewing, the aroma but the acidity upon the palate is bright and lively. Notes of mango and orange come through in the cup, with a pleasant sweetness. In the finish, there's a hint of elusive floral notes. Different brewing methods don't yield significant variations, but as it cools, the flavour improves. (My 42/50)

Nano Kaffee, Rwanda, Dukunde, Organic

Profile

• Roaster: Nano Kaffee, Berlin, Germany
  
• Region: Province du Nord
  
• Producer: Dukunde Kawa Musasa Cooperative
  
• Variety: Red Bourbon
  
• Process: Natural

Nano Kaffee is obsessed with emphasising its role as a responsible business. It is undoubtedly true, yet tends to distract us from focusing on the coffee itself. Typically, when a business reaches the top of its industry, it begins to stress creating social and ecological added value - something Nano Kaffee clearly exemplifies.

In Kinyarwanda, the local language, Dukunde Kawa means "love coffee". In the Northern Province of Rwanda, with small plots of land and many high peaks, coffee trees are often grown with other food crops in the family gardens, making its unique taste but high quality.

After some experimentation, I found that this lot shines best with James Hoffmann’s brewing method (video here), which precisely highlights the characteristics of the Red Bourbon variety. The aroma is appealing, with sweet notes of raspberry jam and a hint of chocolate. On the palate, it delivers a burst of blood orange, a pronounced citric acidity, and a silky mouthfeel, though slightly thin. I adjusted the brewing parameters but noticed no significant improvement. Overall, it’s a unique and memorable specialty coffee. (My 43/50)

MOK Coffee, Ethiopia, Tibebu Roba, Natural

Profile

• Roaster: MOK Coffee, Brussels, Belgium
  
• Region: Yirgacheffe
  
• Producer: Tibebu Roba
  
• Variety: Kurume & Wolisho
  
• Process: Natural

MOK Coffee was a fantastic micro coffee roastery, founded in 2012 by two times Belgian Cup Tasters Champion Jens Crabbé. They focus on roasting in small batches of 10-23 kg, allowing precise control over the process to ensure the tasting profile of the bean is just right. Though their selection is limited, they offer rare, high-quality options that are definitely worth keeping an eye on.

Yirgacheffe, Ethiopia is undoubtedly a renowned origin for high-quality coffee. The plantations here are typically managed in a distinctive way, with most growing in a natural, semi-wild environment. The shade provided by the wild trees in combination with the very fertile soil provide the perfect ecosystem to offer a a beautifully balanced cup of coffee. On the other hand, Tibebu Roba, a charismatic coffee farmer, is an inspiration for smallholders, and his commitment to quality has earned an admiration within the coffee community.

This coffee is so memorable that combines aromas of apple and some floral hints. Up-front yoghurt dominates, swiftly followed juicy orange and lime. The body is light, showcasing the clean, bright, and high-acidity profile. When it's cooling down, it resembles iced tea with a soft limey finish. This Yirga-coffee is consistently stunning whatever the brewing methods. It definitely fulfils my vision of a speciality coffee and I will keep an eye on Yirgacheffe anyway. (My 45/50)